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Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Tradition 750ML 2013
Sku: IT-0028522
Product Rating
Critics Ratings:   (1)
Product Information
Country: Austria
Region: Weinland
Sub-Region: Niederosterreich
Appellation: Kamptal
Grape Varietal: Gruner Veltliner
Type: Still wine
Inventory Location
San Francisco
Reg. $44.98

Vinous 97 points - This latest---indeed, greatest--in Michael Moosbrugger’s memorable ongoing series of explorations into how and why his mid-20th century predecessors and their forebears “raised” wine, was to have been bottled this summer for autumn release. But Moosbrugger was away when I returned to Austria in September and I was unable to obtain a bottle, so for now I present my May 2015 notes from cask. Faintly yeasty and alkaline notes in the nose accompany intimations of the rich, earthy, umami-laden foundation of subtly caramelized root vegetables that the palate delivers, studded with peppercorns and drizzled with fragrant floral honey. Satiny in texture, searchingly expansive, yet buoyant and preserving a vibrant core of sheer refreshment, this enters a finishing realm of oyster liquor-like salinity, oceanic mineral and seaweedy depth, that will milk your salivary glands while leaving your mouth agape. (Any embarrassment will be well worth it.) (Nov 2015)

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Wine maker notes
The ‘Tradition’ wines are related to the early 19th century - especially to the period between around 1800 and 1850. This period is marked on one side by the period of baroque, where intense aromatisation in vinfication was practice. With the upcoming Romantic aromatisation yielded the idea of pure nature and the ‘pure’ taste. Besides that winemakers were looking back to an empirical knowledge of nearly 2000 years of winemaking. On the other hand this period is marked in the middle of the century by the upcoming industrialisation which has been leading to more and more technology in the cellar and started to change the craftsmanship side of winemaking. This development leads step by step to the point, when we start to talk about modern winemaking, which focuses on the question of aromas and fruit components. 200 years ago the cellar masters of Gobelsburg had a completely different idea on wine. Wine was seen in these days much more as an individual. They compared wine with the human being and believed that as we humans have to undergo certain development, also a wine has to do so. And as we have to breathe, also a wine has to breathe in order to accomplish all that. These considerations have been leading to the common practice to rack the wine from cask to cask to let the wine breath in order to encourage the next step of his development. This was repeated several times and was called the ‘teaching’ of the wine (ger: die Schulung). Here the relation between wine and cellar master can be seen in the same way as the relation between a teacher and his pupil. The task of the cellar master was to identify the potential of the wine and according to that, ‘teach’ him up to his potential. This can be seen in contradiction to our today’s modern imagination that great wine is made in the vineyard and not in the cellar. In our todays mind we belief that the big art of making a great wine is to do ‘nothing’. The grapes are pressed with a basket press for low sediment content, without further sedimentation the wines are fermented without temperature control in 25 hl Manhartsberg oak casks (double foudre). After the fermentation the wines are racked every 3 to 4 months to let the wine ‘breathe’ on one side, but on the other side to go off the lees. This process lasts for about two years until the wine is ready to be bottled.

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